December 25, 2006
Even in Costa Rica, Skepticism of the U.S.
Visiting Costa Rica again after many years has focused my
attention on that special country and Latin America in
general. What I'm seeing and hearing adds an additional
dimension to the general picture of the U.S. in the world in
these days of globalization, far-off Iraq, the Israelis and
Palestinians, Chavez, China, et al.
Costa Rica has been historically, culturally and
economically the U.S.’s most consistent and strongest ally
in this region, Oscar Arias' failure to become involved with
the Ronald Reagan-Oliver North contra scheme
notwithstanding. U.S. retirees have been finding a friendly
haven here since the 1950s, encouraged by political
stability, a welcoming population, favorable government
policies, great value for their dollars and a very pleasant
quality of life. People at all levels of society are more
like us than most of Latin America, and easier with whom to
do business of many kinds. And there have been many kinds.
Even during the worst times in the
U.S-Latin American relations, Costa Rica has largely been
uninvolved with the strong anti-American feelings of much of
the region.
Costa Rican women are legendarily beautiful, friendly and
sharp. I would say that even if I weren't married to one. In
fact, during the period when the U.S. aid program was
helping Costa Rica to promote non-traditional exports – that
is, exports other than coffee – we used to joke that the
most important non-traditional export over the years has
been Costa Rican women. It might be true, as many former
Peace Corps volunteers and their Costa Rican wives would
attest.
Costa Rica has become, over the last 10 years, one of the
foremost tourist destinations of the hemisphere, for
Americans and Europeans – so much so that for those of us
who loved Costa Rica as it was 20 years or so ago, it has
become the best subject for my favorite Yogi Berra-ism, “No
one goes there any more - it's too crowded.” People
certainly do go there, in droves, so much so that much of
the Pacific Coast, with its American chain hotels and
restaurants, has become unrecognizable as a country
of Central America. Economically the country is doing very
well in many ways.
It was especially interesting to me to hear from a
legislator friend that one of the most contentious political
issues of the day has been ratification of the CAFTA Treaty
by this country. This bastion of pro-American policies of
the Western Hemisphere, as of a week ago, had not yet
ratified the treaty, although it was felt it eventually
would. The new Arias government, not a lemming-like follower
of U.S. policies, is strongly in favor, as are many other
powerful interests, but many strong public sector unions and
other groups were holding things up for some time. Many
people and economic groups are skeptical about stronger
integration with the U.S. and other countries of Central
America.
The results of past connections and related developments
have not been all positive, especially in recent years, and
especially for less well-off groups in society. Crime is up
dramatically, especially in San Jose and the Caribbean
Coast, which has become known, fairly or not, as a center
for illegal drugs. A public bus was assaulted recently and a
local man killed. This is certainly not the norm, for
perhaps the least crime-affected country of Latin America,
but its departure from the past very low-crime status has
people talking and thinking. The large influx of foreign
funds from tourism, and purchases of land for hotels and
second homes, has distorted what used to be a largely
agricultural economy. Costa Rica has reportedly become one
of the foremost sex-tourism destinations in this part of the
world. This is still the least militaristic country of the
region, but the ouzi-bearing guards at some centro
comerciales (shopping centers) and the DEA patrol boats
off the Caribbean Coast have taken something from its
former idealistic image.
In writing
this I am also mindful of the political context in the rest
of Latin America: Castro and his legacy in Cuba,
devil-mongering Chavez in Venezuela, the election of Eva
Morales in Bolivia, a Socialist government in Chile and most
recently Rafael Correa in Ecuador. These are all political
leaders who have made resisting American hegemony, if not
America itself, a cornerstone of their politics. We seem in
danger of losing our long-standing stature in the region.
The concerns are perhaps stronger than at any time since the
U.S.-inspired coup against democratically elected President
Arbenz in Guatemala in the 1950s.
Costa Rica is certainly not on the verge of an anti-American
revolution - far from it. But if this U.S. disciple has some
doubts, to add to these many hard-core skeptics, it must be
time to look at what we're doing in this region. This is not
about Iraq or squabbles with our European friends. This goes
to the heart of American values and policies, and its vision
for the world, a vision that is not embraced by many that we
might think would. We need to take a look at what we are
promoting and creating in the world.
To offer
feedback on this column,
click here.
